by Dr. Deuce 2006
used by permission
Most people know little about electricity in any form including HMVs. When
restoring or just trying to make your HMV drive down the road, a little
understanding is very helpful.
The 1st thing to remember is that all generators and
alternators, dynamos etc generate Alternating Current (AC) power. It is a
fact of having one or more coils either rotating inside a magnetic field
or the magnetic field revolving inside the fixed coil. If you want AC like
you have in your house, great! If however you want to be associated with a
battery, you need Direct Current (DC). To change AC to DC is relatively
easy and with generators and alternators, two different means are
employed.
Automotive Generators have stationary Field coils mounted to the inside of
the cylindrical housing of the Generator itself. Inside the Generator is
the Armature which is turned by the engine usually via a belt and pulley
system. The Armature has a number of individual coils made into it. These
coils are connected to the Commutator at the back end of the Armature by
the rear bearing/bushing. The Commutator has a number of slightly rounded
copper bars attached to it with a small insulating gap in between them.
These bars are not attached electrically to anything but to one end of a
coil. Each coil is attached to two bars that are exactly opposite by 180
degrees on the Commutator. Riding on the Commutator and attached to the
Generator housing or back cover and electrically isolated are two brush
holders. The brushes are held against the Commutator by springs that
maintain a constant force to keep the brushes in contact with the
Commutator bars. The whole system is designed so that the brushes will
mostly touch only one set of Commutator bars which are connected to one
coil at any one time as the Armature rotates. As the Armature rotates, the
brushes move from one set of bars attached to one coil to the next set of
bars attached to the next coil. One of the brushes is connected to the
ARMATURE terminal of the Generator and the other is connected to the
housing or back endplate (ground). The
FIELD terminal on a Generator is connected to one end of the Field Coil(s)
and the other end is connected to the ARMATURE terminal on most of the
General Motors Generators. With
the Autolite type Generators, the other end of the Field coil(s) is
connected to the case (Ground).
As the Armature rotates through the magnetic field generated by the
Field windings, if you attached a meter to the two ends of just one of the
Armature coils, you would see a positive voltage that rose then declined
to zero then a negative voltage that grew more negative then declined back
to zero where the whole process began. Alternating Current (AC).
What the
Commutator does is make sure that the output voltage presented to the
ARMATURE terminal is only either always positive, or always negative
depending upon whether your vehicle is positive or negative ground. It can
be zero, but never the opposite polarity in normal operation.
The
strength of the Field coils (amount of current passing through them
basically) and the speed of the rotation of the Armature determines the
output voltage presented to the ARMATURE terminal.
If the
FIELD terminal had the full vehicle voltage applied, in this case 6 volts,
the ARMATURE terminal would have about 8 to 9 volts at it with the engine
running above idle. The ideal voltage to charge a 6 volt battery fast is
about 7.7 volts. To reduce this output, the voltage through the Field
winding must be reduced and regulated. In the old days for HMVs, this was
accomplished by turning the Field voltage on and off relatively fast. When
you apply power to a coil, any coil, it takes a certain amount of time for
the coil to ‘charge up’ so to speak. In the voltage regulator, the
Voltage Regulator Relay monitors the output of the ARMATURE terminal and
when it approaches 7.7 volts, the relay pulls in and disconnects power to
the FIELD terminal on the generator. As the magnetic field collapses in
the Field(s) of the generator, the voltage at the ARMARURE terminal starts
to fall. When it reaches a voltage somewhat less then 7.7 volts, the
Voltage Regulator Relay releases and reconnects the FIELD terminal to
power again and the process starts all over again. The voltage at which it
connects and the voltage at which it disconnects have to be different by a
small amount. This is called hysteresis
Most
people do not realize that the ‘points’ (contacts) in the Voltage
Regulator Relay are turning on and off pretty fast all the time that the
engine is running above idle. They are not opening and closing as fast as
the ignition points, however they are buzzing right along. This is why you
need to check the output of the generator regularly to make sure that the
points have not worn, spring stretched, etc.
A
generator voltage regulator also has a Current Relay in it. This relay
measures the current that the load (battery and electrical devices) are
putting on the Armature connection. Generators have the ability to try and
please the load and destroy themselves in the process. To prevent damage
from trying to make too much electricity, or in this case current (Amps),
this relay pulls in and releases the Field winding power source. After the
current falls to a safe level, the relay releases and allows the normal
Field Voltage relay to control the output of the generator.
The third
relay in a voltage regulator enclosure is the Cutout Relay. This relay
allows the Armature terminal on the Generator and voltage regulator to
connect to the
Battery
terminal on the voltage regulator only when the Armature voltage is
greater than the
Battery
voltage (charging). If the Armature were connected to the
Battery
terminal all the time, the generator would try to run as a motor when the
engine was not running. This would both discharge the battery and it would
also burn up the generator.
Everything
talked about above is the same for a 12 volt system, except the 7.7 volts
maximum is 14.4 volts in a 12 volt system.
An
alternator is built similar to a generator except inside out. The
‘Field” winding is built onto the rotating part inside the Alternator.
It is connected to the voltage regulator by two slip rings. These slip
rings are continuous bands of copper that look like a wedding ring. Like
the generator, a brush rides upon each of these rings. Unlike the
generator, these slip rings and brushes carry a small amount of current
and never get connected to anything as the Generator does with the brushes
jumping from one commutator segment to another one.
The fixed
coils (usually 3 of them) are called the Stator. They generate alternating
current voltage on each coil (3 phase). Because the
Battery
operates on Direct Current (DC), a method must be used to change the AC
into DC (rectification). In an Alternator, high current Silicone Diodes
are used. Diodes act like one way valves. The electricity can only pass in
one direction. By connecting 6 of these Diodes to the 3 coils, a pulsating
DC voltage is created. This is outputted from the Alternator on the
BAT(tery) terminal. Because the Diodes only let the electricity pass in
one direction, these Diodes act as both the Cutout Relay of a Generator
regulator and the Commutator inside the Generator.
Diodes pass a lot of current in one direction, but they also pass a
very small amount in the opposite direction. If you leave a vehicle with
an alternator connected to the battery for more then a month, the battery
may be discharged enough to give you a tough time starting. With an
Alternator, a battery disconnect is highly recommended in an HMV
application where it may sit for a long period of time especially in the
winter.
Early
Alternators used a voltage regulating relay like what the Generators use
and it functioned the same way switching on and off and ‘averaging’ a
voltage to be applied to the FIELD winding. In a more modern alternator,
the voltage is regulated by a transistorized (solid state) regulator
module that in many cases is inside the alternator housing itself. The mid
70’s GM type works like this. There is a 2 pin plug on the side of the
housing with one lead being switched on and off to the battery with the
ignition switch. The other lead is for an idiot light with the other side
connected to the ignition switch.